Quilting for Beginners – This is by far the easiest quilt you will ever make
In this quilting tutorial, we show you, step by step, how to make a quilt in less than a day. And the more quilts you make the quicker it becomes. This is a ‘quilting for beginners’ type of tutorial so don’t be afraid to tackle it, even if you have never made one before. You will love how easy this quilt pattern is.
Are you put off making a quilt because of the binding? – well in this quilt we don’t use binding.
Not up to free motion quilting just yet? – no worries, we don’t do that either.
This is a very simple beginner’s quilt that can be made by anyone who can sew a straight line. And if you can’t, well you’ll be an expert by the time you finish, because this quilt is all straight line sewing.
You will be so amazed at how quick and easy this is, that you will soon be making them for gifts.
Quilting for beginners has never been so easy!
Watch the step-by-step video below or scroll down for the written instructions
QUILTING SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED TO COMPLETE THIS PROJECT
Note: We have used quilting cotton as the fabric for this quilt. Technically you can use almost any type of fabric to make a quilt but as a beginner the easiest fabric to work with is quilting cotton.
- 2 metres (approx 2 yards) for the backing fabric (we had some left over after cutting to size)
- 1/4 metre (approx 1/4 yard) for each of 8 different types of fabrics (we didn’t end up using it all)
- 2 metres (approx 2 yards) of quilting batting (we had some left over after cutting to size), or you can just buy a pack here.
TOOLS USED IN THIS TUTORIAl
You can check the latest prices at Amazon by clicking on the links below:
- Creative Grids Ruler 8½” x 24½”
- Olfa 24″ x 36″ double-sided healing mat
- Warm Company Batting
- Olfa 60mm rotary cutter
- Gutermann Sew All thread
The completed size of the quilt is 37″ by 50″.
To Make the Quilt Wider
- Cut two strips of the same fabric and sew them together for each row
To Make the Quilt Longer:
- Add more strips.
Your backing fabric and batting will need to be adjusted to the size of your finished quilt top.
LET’S GET STARTED
We recommend that you watch the video above first before going through the written instructions.
1. Cutting the Quilt Strips
There is no hard and fast rule for cutting the strips.
For the quilt in the video we cut the strips in a variety of sizes – 2″, 3″ and 4″ but you can cut them to whatever size suits you. Just as long as you cut enough strips for the finished length of your quilt.
We cut the strips the width of the fabric. So essentially each strip measures approximately 42″ in length.
- Lay your strips out and decide how you want the finished quilt to look.
- Stack your strips so that they are in order.
2. Sewing the Quilt Strips
- Take the first two strips and lay the right sides together.
- Sew them together with a ¼” seam.
- Press the seams to one side, generally towards the darker fabric so they don’t show through if you have a light strip next to a dark one.
- TIP: To minimise warping we suggest that you sew your first strip in one direction. and add the next strip sewing it on in the opposite direction. If you sew all the strips in one direction the quilt may warp.
- Add the next strip to the previous one.
- Sew them together with a ¼” seam.
- Keep doing this until all the strips are sewn together.
3. Squaring up the Quilt
- Take your quilting ruler.
- Lay it straight on your fabric.
- Line up one of the lines on your ruler along one of your seam lines. Make sure it lines up in a few places.
- Some of the selvedges on my fabric are quite wide. So I am going to come in about 1½” from the edge of the quilt.
- Cut off the excess with your rotary cutter or scissors.
- When you come to the end of your ruler, move it up the quilt.
- Line up a line on your ruler with seam lines on the quilt.
- Continue to cut.
- Repeat on the other side of the quilt.
4. Constructing the Quilt
- Lay the batting down on the floor or a large workspace.
- Lay the quilt top on top of the batting.
- Roll the quilt top back and apply adhesive spray on the batting. The adhesive spray should cover all of the batting. You don’t need need to spray too heavily.
- Place the top piece over the batting and smooth down removing any bubbles or creases. It’s worth ironing both the top and backing pieces to ensure smooth, wrinkle-free fabric.
- You can also pin the two together if you prefer.
- Using the top layer as a template, cut around the batting.
- Lay your backing material on the floor or table, right side facing up.
- You can trim the selvedges off first. My lap quilt is going to fit between the selvedges so I haven’t done that.
- Now lay the batting/quilt top face down on top of the backing.
- The backing and the quilt top will be right sides together.
- Cut around the backing using the batting/quilt top as the template.
- You will now have three pieces of fabric all measuring the same width and height.
- Pin all three layers together, I like to use lots of pins to keep everything in place.
- Just do a final check that everything is in the right order before sewing.
- The backing and the top of the quilt are facing right sides together, and the batting is on the back of the top of the quilt. ( I hope that makes sense) see the photo below.
- Mark approx a 6″ – 8″ opening to turn the quilt through.
- Use a fabric pen or a Frixion pen. DO NOT use a regular pen.
- Start with a backstitch at one of the marks.
- Sew around the edge using a ½” seam.
- Stop when you come to the second mark.
- You now have an opening to turn the quilt through.
- Before turning the quilt through, trim the corners.
- Take care not to cut your stitching.
- Trim some of the bulk away from the corners
- Trim on an angle from the corner out to the edge.
- Take care not to cut any of your stitching.
- Turn the quilt through to the right side.
- Push the corners out. I use a wooden skewer for this. If you use scissors, be careful not to push too hard. You don’t want to tear the fabric.
- Fold in the seam allowance at the opening.
- Give the quilt a press.
- Press the opening so that it sits nice and flat.
- I like to pin the opening pieces together before topstitching.
- Topstitch all around the edge of the quilt. I use either 1/16″ or 1/8″.
- The topstitching closes the opening and gives a nice finish to the edge of the quilt.
5. DITCH STITCHIN’
- Now it’s time to quilt. We are going to ditch stitch to hold all the layers together, but you can quilt however you like, but keep it simple.
- Stitching in the ditch is sewing down the seam lines.
- We are going to sew down the seam line where each set of stripes meet.
- An open toe walking foot will help you to see where you are stitching.
- At the beginning and end of each line of stitching just do a small backstitch so that the thread doesn’t unravel.
Note: Just don’t do dense quilting because that will pull the quilt in. The method we are using here doesn’t have the extra fabric needed for the shrinkage caused by dense quilting.
- And there you have it, a completed quilt in no time at all. With no binding to worry about.
- You can see the ditch stitching lines on the back of the quilt.
- All nice and neatly finished.
Check out how the Frixion pens are used for quilting here.
You might also be interested in a different version of this quilt – The Easiest Quilt V2