Easy Envelope Cushion Cover – 16″

We made these cushions using a left over layer cake square for one of them, and for the others we cut fabric from our scrap stash.

They look lovely when they are finished and they take hardly any  time at all to make.

The measurements are for a 16″ finished cushion cover.

What You Need:

  • 1 @ 10″ square for the centre piece.
  • 2  strips @ 10″ x 1¾” (for the top and bottom sashing)
  • 2  strips @ 12½”x 1¾” ( for the side sashing)

Border:

  • 2  strips @ 12½” x 2½” (for the top and bottom border)
  • 2 strips @ 16½” x 2½” ( for the side borders)

Cushion Cover Back:

  • 2  pcs @ 13″ x 16½”

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Method:

Cushion Cover Front:

  • Sew the two short side sashing strips, one to the top  and one to the bottom of the centre piece.
  • Press the seams to the outside edge.

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  • Sew the long sashing strips, one on each side of the centre piece.
  • Press the seams to the outside edge.

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  • Sew the small border pieces to the top and bottom of the centre piece.
  • Press the seams to the outside edge.

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  • Sew the long border pieces to the sides of the centre piece.
  • Press to the outside edge.

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Cushion Cover Back:

  • This gives a nice finish to the top section of the envelope piecesenvelope-cushion-cover,sewing,craft
  • Top stitch approx 1/16″ in from the 1″ fold line.
  • Top stitch approx 1/16″ in from the top edge
  • Repeat with the other backing piece.
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  • Press.
  • Fold along the line.
  • Draw a line 1″ from the pressed edge as shown in the image below.
  • Press.
  • Fold along the line.
  • Draw a line a ¼” along the long edge as shown in the image below.
  • Lay the front of your cushion cover, right side up, on your workspace.
  • Lay one of the back cover pieces, right sides down, on top of the front pieceenvelope-cushion-cover,sewing,craft
  • Lay the other back cover piece so that it overlaps the first back cover piece.

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  • Pin around the edge taking particular care when pinning the overlapped pieces. You want to make sure that the underneath piece doesn’t move while you are sewing, so pin it well.
  • Sew around the edge with a ¼” seam.

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  • Clip the corners taking care not to cut your stitching.
  • Turn through and press.
  • If you like a full, poofy look then insert a 16″ cushion insert. If you prefer a not so full look then use a 14″ or 15″ cushion insert.

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These cushion covers are so quick and easy to make.

You can also change the look of the front as you can see in the purple and black cushion cover.  Here I have made the centrepiece section smaller and increased the size of the sashing and border.

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Magic Pillowcase Tutorial (AKA Burrito Pillow/ Roll-Up Pillow)

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This is such a easy project with beautiful results. The Magic Pillowcase is made with a unique process  that results in a  professional looking finish with no seams showing, especially if you follow along with us as we sew  it together using a french seam.

Watch the VIDEO TUTORIAL at the end of this video.

What You Will Need

  • Main fabric – 1 piece at 27″ by the width of fabric
  • Cuff fabric – 1 piece at 9″ by the width of fabric
  • Trim fabric – 1 piece at 2 ½” by the width of fabric (you can adjust the trim size to suit you)

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  • Start by folding the trim piece in half lengthwise and iron to form a crease.

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  • Open up each fabric to the full length and lay on a table.
  • Place the cuff piece on the bottom with the pattern side facing up.

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  • Place the main piece face up on top of the cuff piece.

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  • Place the trim piece on top of the main piece.

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  • Pin all three pieces together. Pin from the top as this will make it easier in the following steps.

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  • Now roll up the main fabric from the bottom.

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  • Keep rolling until you get close to the trim. Don’t go over the trim though, we don’t want the main piece to get caught up in our seam later.
  • You should see your cuff piece appear.

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  • Lift the cuff piece and bring it up and over the rolled fabric until it meets the top of the trim piece.

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  • Remove each pin and repin to take into account the cuff piece.

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  • All the layers should now be pinned together.

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  • Now you need to sew down the sandwiched fabrics with a ¼” seam (as per the  red marks in the image below)

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  • Once sewn, grab the main fabric from the middle of the tube and start pulling it through.

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  • It should open out into one single piece with the trim and cuff sewn in.
  • Iron this to form a nice crease along the cuff.

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  • Fold the fabric in half lengthwise.

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  • At one end, line up all of the selvages and pin to keep in place. We will be trimming this side eventually but not just yet. Just pin it for the moment.

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  • At the other end, trim the excess to ensure that all three fabrics line up.

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  • Return to the other end, and trim that as well. You will only need to trim enough to remove the selvages.

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  • Now that both sides are trimmed we can sew up the sides.
  • You have a number of options here. You can:
    • sew with a regular 1/4″ seam and zigzag around the edge to prevent fraying
    • use your serger/overlocker to create a serged edge around the pillow
    • sew using a french seam – that’s what we will be doing with ours
  • To create a french seam, fold the pillow over with the pattern side facing outwards.
  • Sew along the seam line with a 1/4″ seam as shown by the white lines in the image below. You don’t need to sew all the way around the pillowcase – just the one side and the bottom.

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  • Once you have sewn the edges, it’s a good idea to trim them a little. This will help with the next step as it will ensure when you sew the next 1/4″ seam, that this seam is encased in the outer seam.  Okay, that may not make sense now, but it will when you get to the next step.
  • So trim down the seams that you just created using about a 1/16″, or maybe a little more. You need to do that for both the bottom and side seam.

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  • Turn the pillowcase inside out.
  • You should be able to feel the seams on the inside of the pillow case.
  • Roll those seams with your fingers so that they are smooth and iron down around the entire edge of the pillow.

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  • Now you need to sew around the side and bottom edge of the pillow. This will encase the seam that is still showing on the outside of the pillow case.

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  • Turn the pillowcase through and you are done!

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Fabric Journal, Book Cover Tutorial

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These covers are so handy for keeping your journals and your favourite soft covered books nice and clean.

The instructions are suitable for any sized journal or book,

What You Need.

  • Journal or book – at least one cover needs to be flexible. You may have trouble trying to put a hard covered book into the cover.
  • Tape Measure
  • Batting
  • Fabric for Lining
  • Fabric for Cover
  • Fabric for Flaps
  • Ribbon – two  lengths.

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  • Measure the journal from the edge of one cover, right around the spine of the journal and ending at the edfe of the other cover.
  • Write this measurement down and add 1″ to the measurement.

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  • My cover measures 12 7/8″ so I will add an inch and my material will measure 13 7/8″.

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  • Measure the cover from the top edge to the bottom edge.
  • Write this measurement down and add 1″ to the measurement.
  • My cover measure 8 3/8″ so I will add an inch and my material will measure 9 3/8″

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  • Cut your fabric for the  front, lining, the flaps and the batting to the measurements you have written down.
  • I have cut all my pieces to 13 7/8″ x 9 3/8″.

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  • Take the fabric for the flaps and cut in half.
  • Fold each piece in half and press.journal-cover-6
  • On the folded edge, sew 1/16″ in from the fold.
  • Sew 1/2″ from the line you just sewed. You can make this as big or as small as you like, or you can even omit this step altogether,  it is only decorative and it does give a nice finish to the flaps.

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  • Take your cover fabric and fold in half across the the width.
  • Just finger press.
  • Alternatively you can measure the half way mark and draw a line.  We  simply want the half way mark so that we can line our ribbons up along this line.

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  • Line up one piece of ribbon with one edge of the fabric
  • Lay it along the line and pin.
  • Sew the ribbon onto the fabric, just in from the edge, along both sides.

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  • Lay the second piece of ribbon along the line
  • Sew the ribbon onto the fabric, just in from the edge, along both sides.
  • Press.

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  • Press the ribbons back over themselves and pin. This is just to make sure the ribbons stay lined up and don’t move while we assemble the piece.
  • Don’t pin too close to the edge.

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  • Lay the batting on the table.
  • Lay the lining, right side UP, on top of the batting.

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  • Lay the flaps on each side making sure that the open pieces are facing out to the edge. We want the folded edge facing into the centre of the piece.

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  • Lay the cover piece on top, right side DOWN, making sure the ribbons are gathered into the centre well away from the edges.
  • Pin everything in place making sure everything is even around the edges, and that you catch in the edges of flap pieces.

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  • Sew around the edge with a 1/4″ seam leaving a gap of approx. 4″ on the bottom edge. This is so we can turn the cover through to the right side once it has been sewn.

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  • Turn the cover through just to make sure that all the fabric and that none of the ribbon has been caught into the seams.
  • Turn the cover back to the wrong side  and trim the corners. Also trim away some of the bulk at the corners.

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  • Turn the cover back to the right side.
  • Push out the corners.
  • Turn under the seam allowance at the opening and press everything, taking care with the opening to make sure it’s pressed down nice and neat.

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  • Topstitch 1/16″ around the outer edge to close the opening and to finish off the cover.
  • If you have too much bulk in the corners, just lift the foot a little at the start of the corner until the machine gets going.

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  • Put your journal into the cover and decide how you want the ribbons to look.
  • You can cut them short and just tie them at the edges, Or you can wrap them around the book, bringing both ribbons to the front, cutting them to the same length and then cutting a V in the edge of each ribbon to finish it off.

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You can watch the video here:

Fabric Collage Tutorial Using Wool & Foil

Fabric Collage - Wool Collage
I just love the look of  these fabric collages. You can make them as small or as large as you like. Sometimes I have a project in mind and will cut the fabric piece to fit, and sometimes there is no project in mind and the piece gets put aside until the right project presents itself.

NOTE: These pieces are for use in mainly decorative projects, that won’t require a lot of washing.  We did a wash test by placing the fabric into a lingerie laundry bag and washing it in cold water on a delicate cycle.  The worked piece washed up really well. But again I wouldn’t recommend using it on something that needs to be washed a lot.

You can check out our video Tutorial on how to create a Fabric and Foil Collage here.

What you need:

  • A piece of fabric – cut to whatever size you need for your project.
  • Fusible web such as Mistyfuse
  • An assortment of wool – Scraps are fine.  So if you have leftover wool and ribbon pieces from previous projects then by all means use them up.
  • Heat Transfer Foil – This must be for use with fabric. We use Jones Tones.
  • Baking Paper 

Note: The Heat Transfer Foil used for scrapbooking paper will not work with this technique.

Method:

  • Cut the fusible web slightly smaller than your piece of fabric.
  • Place the fusible web on top of the fabric. Have the fabric facing right side up.

Fabric Collage Fusible Web

  • Place a piece of baking paper over the fabric and fusible web and iron on the baking paper.  DO NOT USE STEAM

Why do we use Baking Paper? Because the fusible web doesn’t stick to it. 

Fabric & Foil Collage

  • Let the piece cool slightly then carefully peel off the baking paper.
  • The fusible web will now be stuck to the fabric and you will also have a sticky surface to lay your wool on.

Fabric & Foil Colllage

  • Lay your pieces of wool on top of the sticky surface.
  • Do not overlap the wool as it will only stick to the places where there is fusible web and if you lay one piece of wool on top of another, it won’t stick and will flap around.

If you want to overlap the wool then you will need to do an extra step before adding the foil. (explained later)

Fabric & Foil Collage

  • So once you have your design laid out how you like it, place the baking paper over the design and press with the iron.

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  • Let cool slightly.
  • Remove the baking paper.
  • Your wool will be stuck to the fusible web.
  • Trim the excess wool from the edges.

Fabric Collage

  • Now take your heat transfer foil and place it right side up.

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  • Place the baking paper over the design and press with the iron.

If your foil is smaller than your design, don’t iron along the edge as you will end up with a solid line of colour, just push the point of the iron towards the edge of the foil.  You can adjust the look of the foil as you go.

Fabric & Foil Collage

  • Remove the baking paper and carefully peel off the foil. You will see how the foil has adhered to the areas where the fusible web was exposed.

Fabric & Foil Collage

  • If there are areas where you would like more foil, just place the foil on the area with the right side up and iron. Keep doing this until you are happy with the look.

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Now when you have finished making your design you may still have some foil left on the transparent sheet. Don’t throw this away. You can use these pieces on another project.

Fabric & Foil Collage Foil Leftovers

Creating an Overlapping Effect

If you want to overlap the wool you will need to add another piece of fusible web before adding the foil

So simply place a piece of fusible web over your design, overlay with the baking paper and iron. Then add your wool, overlapping the previous work pieces. Once you are happy with the placement, place your parchment paper over the whole design and iron.  Now you can go to the step where you add the foil, to finish the piece.

Tools & Equipment we Used in this Project

Some ideas for you:

  • The fabric and foil collage cushion cover was made from our Charm Square Cushion cover tutorial.
  •  I simply cut the collage pieces and some contrasting fabric  into 5″ x 5″ squares, sewed them together and added an envelope back.

Fabric & Foil Collage Cushion

  • This is a closeup of one of the 5″ fabric and foil collage squares.

Fabric & Foil Collage

  • Here is a journal cover made with another piece of the fabric collage that we made previously.Fabric & Foil collage Journal Cover
  • Closeup of the foil and wool fabric used in the journal cover.

Fabric & Foil Collage

  • Photos of the piece of fabric created in this tutorial.

Fabric & Foil collage

Fabric & Foil Collage

 

You can check out our video Tutorial on how to create a Fabric and Foil Collage here.

Easiest Ever No-Sew Dog/Cat Bed Tutorial

No Sew Dog/Cat Bed
Paula’s puppy dog Bronnie was in need of a new dog bed. We went shopping and looked at a few and then thought, “What are we doing, we can easily make her one.” So that’s what we did.

In our latest video we show you how you can easily make a no sew dog bed or a cat bed. And you can make it in any size you want. It doesn’t matter if you have a chihuahua or a great dane, simply adjust the size of the square to match your dog.

Here are the instructions to  make  the no sew dog bed in the video.

Materials.

  • 2 x  34″ x 34″ squares of Polar Fleece.

No Sew Dog/Cat Bed

  • You can us the same colour front and back or contrasting. Remember there are no rules with our tutorials, just do whatever suits you.
  • Do not use open weave fleece such as coral fleece as it will fray too much and won’t hold up to the fringe tying let alone you puppy playing with it.

No Sew Dog/Cat Bed

Method:

  • Lay the 2 pieces of fleece WRONG sides together.
  • Measure a 4″ square on the corner and cut out this square using scissors or a rotary cutter. Do this for all four corners.
  • Lay your ruler along the fabric 4″ from the edge, so lining it up with the cut out corner.

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  • Now with your scissors cut 1″ strips using your ruler as a guide.  You can, if you wish draw a line 4″ from the edge, all the way around the bed, and then draw in your 1″ lines, but really there is no need to do this.  Just eyeballing the measurements works fine,  believe me, your dog will never notice if the fringe is a bit out here and there.

No Sew Dog/Cat Bed

  • Once you have cut the fringe strips on all 4 sides, it’s time to knot the fringe pieces together.
  • Take the top fringe and the matching bottom fringe piece and knot them together. You can use an overhand or underhand knot, just make sure that you tie each of them the same way.

No Sew Dog/Cat Bed

  • Tie the fringe strips in the manner explained above, along three sides. When you get to the last side only tie off about 4 or 5 fringe strips from each end. We need to leave room for the stuffing.
  • We used fibre fill but you can use a cushion insert or foam chips if you wish.

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  • Once you have filled the cavity with your choice of filling, tie of the remaining fringe strips.

No Sew Dog/Cat Bed

All done.  Now how quick and easy was that.

Tools and Equipment Used in this Video